MOLD, METH, 5G - 208.660.8877

HOME INSPECTIONS- 208.215.4090

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​Thank You for choosing Russell & Jeanne!

This is the Authorization Site for the Inland Northwest's only Certified Master Inspection Team, Jeanne and Russell; you've probably already spoken to us, have a quote and are now ready to proceed with the inspection (or Mold Testing) process.  Please click on the "Authorizations" link, above!

Payment in person is preferable, as we can often offer a cash discount!

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What can you expect from your North Idaho home and mold inspection?

• A detailed, written PLATINUM Inspection (no silly check boxes!) 
• Complete Satisfaction Guarantee.  We work for YOU, not agent or seller!
• North Idaho’s Certified Master Inspector Team® - First and only, nearly 20 years!
• Free Visual Mold Inspection by a Certified Mold Inspector (can affect health more than radon!)
• We "Meet or Beat" the published rates of ANY other Certified Master Inspector® Team within 100 miles!

YOUR INDEPENDENT, 3RD-PARTY INSPECTOR TEAM!

 - Home and Mold Inspections in the Greater Coeur d'Alene Area
 - Referred by the area's most concerned Real Estate Agents
 - North Idaho’s MOST TRUSTED Home Inspectors
 - Inspected Once, Inspected Right.
 

Jeanne was among the first Certified Master Inspectors in North America.  She has extensive background in commercial Safety & Risk, business management and property insurance. Jeanne is certified as a Residential and Commercial Inspector by the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors for Coeur d’Alene, Sandpoint, Hayden and all North Idaho properties.  She is also a Lab-Certified Mold Inspector, capable of performing mold testing throughout North Idaho and Eastern Washington.

​Russell Spriggs is North Idaho's first Certified Master Inspector. Russell's abilities to perform home inspections / mold testing, and ethically serve you, have been certified and recognized by an independent Certification Board (www.CertifiedMasterInspector.org). Russ serves as the President of the Idaho State Chapter of the InterNational Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI) and is past President of the Spirit Lake Area Chamber of Commerce.
As your Coeur d'Alene area Home and Mold Inspectors, we guarantee you that we are here for the long haul to serve our community in the best way possible and promise you a detailed, quality home and mold inspection that includes a money-back satisfaction guarantee!
We are your Independent, Third-Party Home Inspectors throughout North Idaho, and bring over 50 years of Construction, Instruction and Home Inspection experience to your doorstep. This unique blend of professional expertise is drawn upon to conduct a thorough examination of your home’s construction and equipment. Your professional home and mold inspection is informative, educational, and safety-oriented. It is conducted in accordance with Standards of Practice criteria established by the world’s largest professional Home Inspectors’ association, the InterNational Association of Certified Home Inspectors.
Our job, as your North Idaho Home and Mold Inspector, is to determine whether the areas being inspected are functional and safe. Neither buyer, seller nor agent has any reason to be apprehensive about an honest Home Inspection. Homes being inspected do not "Fail". You are invited to join us after we investigate every major component of your investment. While we inspect, photograph and report, we are your eyes to help you LEARN your new home - from foundation to roof, the home's plumbing, electrical, heating systems and more!
A Coeur d'Alene home and mold inspection is no different than a Hayden home inspection, or a home inspection in Post Falls. The difference is in the home inspector. Remember, in Idaho, anyone with a flashlight and a stepladder may call themselves a “home inspector”. Beware of self-proclaimed “certifications”! Only InterNACHI Home Inspectors must successfully pass an examination before being accepted and Certified; over 70% of the applicants fail the exam. Many other inspector "societies" simply allow applicants to send in their membership fee, with no prior experience or testing.
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What to expect from your Idaho Home Inspectors
Your Certified Home Inspection comes with this warranty:

• Honest Reports
• Up-Front Pricing
• Inspected Once, Inspected Right
• A Money-back guarantee.
• 24-Hour Emailed Report Delivery

Your 1,000+ Point PLATINUM Inspection includes:
- Written Informative and Educational Narrative Report;
- IAC2 Certified Visual Mold Inspection;
- An easy-to-read Summary Page;
- Full Photo Documentation.

Click HERE to Reserve!
Contact your Coeur d’Alene home and mold inspector to schedule your home inspection in Hayden, Post Falls, Coeur d'Alene, Kellogg, Sandpoint and all of North Idaho!

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Idaho Home Seller Inspections
​Listing Inspections:  Streamlining the Real Estate Transaction.
by Nick Gromicko
Former REALTOR and Founder of the International Association of Certified Home Inspectors (InterNACHI)
 
Seller inspections (sometimes referred to as pre-listing inspections) are becoming more popular because they virtually eliminate all the pitfalls and hassles associated with waiting to do the inspections until a buyer is found.  In many ways, waiting to schedule inspections until after a home goes under agreement is too late.  Seller inspections are arranged and paid for by the seller, usually just before the home goes on the market.  The seller is the inspector's client.  The inspector works for the seller and generates a report for the seller.  The seller then typically makes multiple copies of the report and shares them with potential buyers that tour the home for sale.  Seller inspections are a benefit to all parties in a real estate transaction.  They are a win-win-win-win.  Home inspectors should consider offering seller inspections and marketing this service to local listing agents.
 
Advantages to the seller:

• The seller can choose a certified InterNACHI inspector rather than be at the mercy of the buyer's choice of inspector.
• The seller can schedule the inspections at the seller's convenience.
• It might alert the seller of any items of immediate personal concern, such as radon gas or active termite infestation.
• The seller can assist the inspector during the inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
• The seller can have the inspector correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
• The report can help the seller realistically price the home if problems exist.
• The report can help the seller substantiate a higher asking price if problems don't exist or have been corrected.
• A seller inspection reveals problems ahead of time which:
  • might make the home show better.
  • gives the seller time to make repairs and shop for competitive contractors.
  • permits the seller to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
  • removes over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.
• The report might alert the seller to any immediate safety issues found, before agents and visitors tour the home.
• The report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
• A seller inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be used as a marketing tool.
• A seller inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on the part of the seller.
• The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• A seller inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
• The deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a problem, last minute.
• The report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

 
Advantages to the home buyer:

• The inspection is done already.
• The inspection is paid for by the seller.
• The report provides a more accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
• A seller inspection eliminates surprise defects.
• Problems are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
• A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might assist in acquiring financing.
• A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

 
 
Advantages to the real estate agent:

• Agents can recommend certified InterNACHI inspectors as opposed to being at the mercy of buyer's choices in inspectors.
• Sellers can schedule the inspections at seller's convenience with little effort on the part of agents.
• Sellers can assist inspectors during the inspections, something normally not done during buyer's inspections.
• Sellers can have inspectors correct any misstatements in the reports before they are generated.
• The reports help sellers see their homes through the eyes of a critical, third-party, thus making sellers more realistic about asking price.
• Agents are alerted to any immediate safety issues found, before other agents and potential buyers tour the home.
• Repairs made ahead of time might make homes show better.
• Reports hosted online entice potential buyers to tour the homes.
• The reports provide third-party, unbiased opinions to offer to potential buyers.
• Clean reports can be used as marketing tools to help sell the homes.
• The reports might relieve prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• Seller inspections eliminate buyer's remorse that sometimes occurs just after an inspection.
• Seller inspections reduce the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• Seller inspections relieve the agent of having to hurriedly procure repair estimates or schedule repairs.
• The reports might encourage buyers to waive their inspection contingencies.
• Deals are less likely to fall apart the way they often do when buyer's inspections unexpectedly reveal problems, last minute. 
• Reports provide full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

 
Common myths about seller inspections:
 
Q.  Don't seller inspections kill deals by forcing sellers to disclose defects they otherwise wouldn't have known about?
A.  Any defect that is material enough to kill a real estate transaction is likely going to be uncovered eventually anyway.  It is best to discover the problem ahead of time, before it can kill the deal.
 
Q.  Isn't a home inspector's liability increased by having his/her reports being seen by potential buyers?
A.  No.  There is no liability in having your seller permit someone who doesn't buy the property see your report.  And there is less liability in having a buyer rely on your old report when the buyer is not your client and has been warned not to rely on your report, than it is to work directly for the buyer and have him be entitled to rely on your report.
 
Q.  Should a seller have a newer home inspected?
A.  Certainly! Unlike real estate agents whose job it is to market properties for their sellers, inspectors produce objective reports.  If the property is truly in great shape the inspection report becomes a pseudo marketing piece with the added benefit of having been generated by an impartial party. 
  
In summary, seller inspections streamline the real estate sales process for all parties involved.  InterNACHI recommends that every home be inspected before being put on the market (listed) and recommends annual inspections for homes that aren't for sale.
 
Radon Testing In Coeur d'AleneHome Buyer's and Seller's Guide to RadonRadon Testing requires TWO trips to your home, as the testing materials must be in place for 48-72 hours. We charge $175 for this service, which includes placement of the test materials, retrieval, overnight shipping to the lab, and emailed lab results within 5 business days. 
For faster results, some companies (www.IdahoRadon.com) employ digital on-site metering devices which are calibrated on a regular basis.
 
CDA Inspectors can provide mold and radon testing in Coeur d'Alene, Hayden, Kellogg, Post Falls, Sandpoint and all of North Idaho. Our inspectors are certified by one of the top labs in the country to perform mold and radon testing. Our mold and radon testing services can be performed as a stand alone service, or can be integrated into our home inspection service for an additional fee. Mold or Radon testing in Coeur d'Alene, Sandpoint, Post Falls, Hayden, Kellogg or any other area of North Idaho should be peformed by a qualified impartial testing company such as ours (that does not try to drum up mitigation business for themselves) with the experience to provide you with the proper testing procedure.


EPA Recommends:

• If you are buying a home or selling your home, have it tested for mold and radon.
• For a new home, ask if radon-resistant construction features were used and if the home has been tested.
• Fix the home if the radon level is 4 picoCuries per liter (pCi/L) or higher.
• Radon levels less than 4 pCi/L still pose a risk, and in many cases, may be reduced.
• Take steps to prevent device interference when conducting a radon test

EPA estimates that radon causes thousands of cancer deaths in the U.S. each year.  Mold causes thousands of hospitalizations.

• Radon is estimated to cause about 21,000 lung cancer deaths per year.

The numbers of deaths from other causes are taken from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's 1999-2001 National Center for Injury Prevention and Control Report and 2002 National Safety Council Report.

Radon Is a Cancer-Causing, Radioactive Gas
You cannot see, smell, or taste radon. But it still may be a problem in your home. When you breathe air containing radon, you increase your risk of getting lung cancer. In fact, the Surgeon General of the United States has warned that radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the United States today. If you smoke and your home has high radon levels, your risk of lung cancer is especially high.

You Should Test for Radon
Testing is the only way to find out your home's radon levels. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.

You Can Fix a Radon Problem
If you find that you have high radon levels, there are ways to fix a radon problem. Even very high levels can be reduced to acceptable levels.

If You Are Selling a Home...
EPA recommends that you test your home before putting it on the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels. Save the test results and all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a positive selling point.

If You Are Buying a Home...
EPA recommends that you know what the indoor radon level is in any home you consider buying. Ask the seller for their radon test results. If the home has a radon-reduction system, ask the seller for information they have about the system.
If the home has not yet been tested, you should have the housed tested.
If you are having a new home built, there are features that can be incorporated into your home during construction to reduce radon levels.
The radon testing guidelines in this Guide have been developed specifically to deal with the time-sensitive nature of home purchases and sales, and the potential for radon device interference. These guidelines are slightly different from the guidelines in other EPA publications which provide radon testing and reduction information for non-real estate situations.

This Guide recommends three short-term testing options for real estate transactions. EPA also recommends testing a home in the lowest level which is currently suitable for occupancy, since a buyer may choose to live in a lower area of the home than that used by the seller.

1. Why Do You Need to Test for Radon?
a. Radon Has Been Found In Homes All Over the U.S.
Radon is a radioactive gas that has been found in homes all over the United States. It comes from the natural breakdown of uranium in soil, rock and water and gets into the air you breathe. Radon typically moves up through the ground to the air above and into your home through cracks and other holes in the foundation. Radon can also enter your home through well water. Your home can trap radon inside.
Any home can have a radon problem. This means new and old homes, well-sealed and drafty homes, and homes with or without basements. In fact, you and your family are most likely to get your greatest radiation exposure at home. That is where you spend most of your time.
Nearly 1 out of every 15 homes in the United States is estimated to have an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). Elevated levels of radon gas have been found in homes in your state.

b. EPA and the Surgeon General Recommend That You Test Your Home
Testing is the only way to know if you and your family are at risk from radon. EPA and the Surgeon General recommend testing all homes below the third floor for radon.
You cannot predict radon levels based on state, local, and neighborhood radon measurements. Do not rely on radon test results taken in other homes in the neighborhood to estimate the radon level in your home. Homes which are next to each other can have different radon levels. Testing is the only way to find out what your home's radon level is.
In some areas, companies may offer different types of radon service agreements. Some agreements let you pay a one-time fee that covers both testing and radon mitigation, if needed.
U.S. Surgeon General Health Advisory
"Indoor radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and breathing it over prolonged periods can present a significant health risk to families all over the country. It's important to know that this threat is completely preventable. Radon can be detected with a simple test and fixed through well-established venting techniques." January 2005.


2. I'm Selling a Home. What Should I Do?
a. If Your Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon...
If you are thinking of selling your home and you have already tested your home for radon, review the Radon Testing Checklist to make sure that the test was done correctly. If so, provide your test results to the buyer.
No matter what kind of test you took, a potential buyer may ask for a new test especially if:

• The Radon Testing Checklist items were not met;
• The last test is not recent, e.g., within two years;
• You have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or
• The buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived in.

A buyer may also ask for a new test if your state or local government requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.

b. If Your Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon...
Have a test taken as soon as possible. If you can, test your home before putting it on the market. You should test in the lowest level of the home which is suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level that you currently live in or a lower level not currently used, but which a buyer could use for living space without renovations.

The radon test result is important information about your home's radon level. Some states require radon measurement testers to follow a specific testing protocol. If you do the test yourself, you should carefully follow the testing protocol for your area or EPA's Radon Testing Checklist. If you hire a contractor to test your residence, protect yourself by hiring a qualified individual or company.
You can determine a service provider's qualifications to perform radon measurements or to mitigate your home in several ways. Many states require radon professionals to be licensed, certified, or registered. Most states can provide you with a list of knowledgeable radon service providers doing business in the state. In states that don't regulate radon services, ask the contractor if they hold a professional proficiency or certification credential.Such programs usually provide members with a photo-ID card, which indicates their qualification(s) and its expiration date. If in doubt, you should check with their credentialing organization. Alternatively, ask the contractor if they've successfully completed formal training appropriate for testing or mitigation, e.g., a course in radon measurement or radon mitigation.
3. I'm Buying a Home. What Should I Do?
a. If the Home Has Already Been Tested for Radon...

If you are thinking of buying a home, you may decide to accept an earlier test result from the seller, or ask the seller for a new test to be conducted by a qualified radon tester. Before you accept the seller's test, you should determinethe results of previous testing;

• Who conducted the previous test: the homeowner, a radon professional, or some other person
• Where in the home the previous test was taken, especially if you may plan to live in a lower level of the home. For example, the test may have been taken on the first floor. However, if you want to use the basement as living space, test there...
• What, if any, structural changes, alterations, or changes in the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system have been made to the house since the test was done. Such changes may affect radon levels.

If you accept the seller's test, make sure that the test followed the Radon Testing Checklist.
If you decide that a new test is needed, discuss it with the seller as soon as possible.

b. If the Home Has Not Yet Been Tested for Radon...

Make sure that a radon test is done as soon as possible. Consider including provisions in the contract specifying:

• Where the test will be located?
• Who should conduct the test?
• What type of test to do?
• When to do the test ?
• How the seller and the buyer will share the test results and test costs (if necessary)
• When radon mitigation measures will be taken and who will pay for them.

Make sure that the test is done in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means the lowest level that you are going to use as living space which is finished or does not require renovations prior to use. A state or local radon official or qualified radon tester can help you make some of these decisions.If you decide to finish or renovate an unfinished area of the home in the future, a radon test should be taken before starting the project and after the project is finished. Generally, it is less expensive to install a radon-reduction system before (or during) renovations rather than afterwards.

4. I'm Buying or Building a New Home. How Can I Protect My Family?

a. Why Should I Buy a Radon-Resistant Home?
Radon-resistant techniques work. When installed properly and completely, these simple and inexpensive passive techniques can help to reduce radon levels. In addition, installing them at the time of construction makes it easier to reduce radon levels further if the passive techniques don't reduce radon levels below 4 pCi/L. Radon-resistant techniques may also help to lower moisture levels and those of other soil-gases. Radon-resistant techniques:

• Making Upgrading Easy: Even if built to be radon-resistant, every new home should be tested for radon after occupancy. If you have a test result of 4 pCi/L or more, a vent fan can easily be added to the passive system to make it an active system and further reduce radon levels.
• Are Cost-Effective: Building radon-resistant features into the house during construction is easier and cheaper than fixing a radon problem from scratch later. Let your builder know that radon-resistant features are easy to install using common building materials.
• Save Money: When installed properly and completely, radon-resistant techniques can also make your home more energy efficient and help you save on your energy costs.

In a new home, the cost to install passive radon-resistant features during construction is usually between $350 and $500. In some areas, the cost may be as low as $100. A qualified mitigator will charge about $300 to add a vent fan to a passive system, making it an active system and further reducing radon levels. In an existing home, it usually costs between $800 and $2,500 to install a radon mitigation system.

b. What Are Radon-Resistant Features?

Radon-resistant techniques (features) may vary for different foundations and site requirements. If you're having a house built, you can learn about EPA's Model Standards (and architectural drawings) and explain the techniques to your builder. If your new house was built (or will be built) to be radon-resistant, it will include these basic elements:

1.    Gas-Permeable Layer: This layer is placed beneath the slab or flooring system to allow the soil gas to move freely underneath the house. In many cases, the material used is a 4-inch layer of clean gravel. This gas-permeable layer is used only in homes with basement and slab-on-grade foundations; it is not used in homes with crawlspace foundations.

2.    Plastic Sheeting: Plastic sheeting is placed on top of the gas-permeable layer and under the slab to help prevent the soil gas from entering the home. In crawl spaces, the sheeting (with seams sealed) is placed directly over the crawlspace floor.

3.    Sealing and Caulking: All below-grade openings in the foundation and walls are sealed to reduce soil gas entry into the home.

4.    Vent Pipe: A 3- or 4-inch PVC pipe (or other gas-tight pipe) runs from the gas-permeable layer through the house to the roof, to safely vent radon and other soil gases to the outside

5.    Junction Boxes: An electrical junction box is included in the attic to make the wiring and installation of a vent fan easier. For example, you decide to activate the passive system because your test result showed an elevated radon level (4 pCi/L or more). A separate junction box is placed in the living space to power the vent fan alarm. An alarm is installed along with the vent fan to indicate when the vent fan is not operating properly.
      5. How Can I Get Reliable Radon Test Results?
Radon testing is easy and the only way to find out if you have a radon problem in your home.

a. Types of Radon Devices
Since you cannot see or smell radon, special equipment is needed to detect it. When you're ready to test your home, you can order a radon test kit by mail from a qualified radon measurement services provider or laboratory. You can also hire a qualified radon tester, very often a home inspector, who will use a radon device(s) suitable to your situation. The most common types of radon testing devices are listed below.
Passive Devices
Passive radon testing devices do not need power to function. These include charcoal canisters, alpha-track detectors, charcoal liquid scintillation devices, and electret ion chamber detectors which are available in hardware, drug, and other stores; they can also be ordered by mail or phone. These devices are exposed to the air in the home for a specified period of time and then sent to a laboratory for analysis. Both short-term and long-term passive devices are generally inexpensive. Some of these devices may have features that offer more resistance to test interference or disturbance than other passive devices. Qualified radon testers may use any of these devices to measure the home's radon level.

Active Devices
Active radon testing devices require power to function. These include continuous radon monitors and continuous working level monitors. They continuously measure and record the amount of radon or its decay products in the air. Many of these devices provide a report of this information which can reveal any unusual or abnormal swings in the radon level during the test period. A qualified tester can explain this report to you. In addition, some of these devices are specifically designed to deter and detect test interference. Some technically advanced active devices offer anti-interference features. Although these tests may cost more, they may ensure a more reliable result.

b. General Information for All Devices

A state or local radon official can explain the differences between devices and recommend the ones which are most appropriate for your needs and expected testing conditions.
Make sure to use a radon measurement device from a qualified laboratory. Certain precautions should be followed to avoid interference during the test period. See the Radon Testing Checklist for more information on how to get a reliable test result.

Radon Test Device Placement

EPA recommends that testing device(s) be placed in the lowest level of the home suitable for occupancy. This means testing in the lowest level (such as a basement), which a buyer could use for living space without renovations. The test should be conducted in a room to be used regularly (like a family room, living room, playroom, den or bedroom); do not test in a kitchen, bathroom, laundry room or hallway. Usually, the buyer decides where to locate the radon test, based on their expected use of the home. A buyer and seller should explicitly discuss and agree on the test location to avoid any misunderstanding. Their decision should be clearly communicated to the person performing the test.

c. Preventing or Detecting Test Interference

There is a potential for test interference in real estate transactions. There are several ways to prevent or detect test interference:

• Use a test device that frequently records radon or decay product levels to detect unusual swings
• Employ a motion detector to determine whether the test device has been moved or testing conditions have changed
• Use a proximity detector to reveal the presence of people in the room which may correlate to possible changes in radon levels during the test
• Record the barometric pressure to identify weather conditions which may have affected the test
• Record the temperature record to help assess whether doors and windows have been opened
• Apply tamper-proof seals to windows to ensure closed house conditions
• Have the seller/occupant sign a non-interference agreement

Home buyers and sellers should consult a qualified radon test provider about the use of these precautions.

d. Length of Time to Test

There Are Two General Ways To Test Your Home for Radon:
Because radon levels vary from day to day and season to season, a short-term test is less likely than a long-term test to tell you your year-round average radon level. However, if you need results quickly, a short-term test may be used to decide whether to fix the home.

Short Term Testing

The quickest way to test is with short-term tests. Short-term tests remain in your home from two days to 90 days, depending on the device. There are two groups of devices which are more commonly used for short-term testing. The passive device group includes alpha track detectors, charcoal canisters, charcoal liquid scintillation detectors, and electret ion chambers. The active device group consists of different types of continuous monitors.

All radon tests should be taken for a minimum of 48 hours. A longer period of testing is required for some devices.
 
Long Term Testing

Long-term tests remain in your home for more than 90 days. Alpha track, and electret ion chamber detectors are commonly used for this type of testing. A long-term test will give you a reading that is more likely to tell you your home's year-round average radon level than a short-term test. If time permits (more than 90 days) long-term tests can be used to confirm initial short-term results. When long-term test results are 4 pCi/L or higher, EPA recommends fixing the home.

e. Doing a Short-Term Test...

If you are testing in a real estate transaction and you need results quickly, any of the following three options for short-term Tests are acceptable in determining whether the home should be fixed. Any real estate test for radon should include steps to prevent or detect device interference with the test device.


When Choosing a Short-Term Testing Option...
There are trade-offs among the short-term testing options. Two tests taken at the same time (simultaneous) would improve the precision of this radon test. One test followed by another test (sequential) would most likely give a better representation of the seasonal average. Both active and passive devices may have features which help to prevent test interference. Your state radon office can help you decide which option is best.
 

Short-Term Testing OptionsWhat to do Next
Passive:
Take two short-term tests at the same time in the same location for at least 48 hours; or; take an initial short-term test for at least 48 hours. Immediately upon completing the first test, do a second test using an identical device in the same location as the first test.Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
Active:
Test the home with a continuous monitor for at least 48 hours.Fix the home if the average radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
f. Using Testing Devices Properly for Reliable Results
If You Hire a Qualified Radon Tester
In many cases, home buyers and sellers may decide to have the radon test done by a qualified radon tester who knows the proper conditions, test devices, and guidelines for obtaining a reliable radon test result. They can also:

• Evaluate the home and recommend a testing approach designed to make sure you get reliable results.
• Explain how proper conditions can be maintained during the radon test.
• Emphasize to occupants of a home that a reliable test result depends on their cooperation. Interference with, or disturbance of, the test or closed-house conditions will invalidate the test result.
• Analyze the data and report measurement results.
• Provide an independent test.

g. Interpreting Radon Test Results
The average indoor radon level is estimated to be about 1.3 pCi/L; roughly 0.4 pCi/L of radon is normally found in the outside air. The U.S. Congress has set a long-term goal that indoor radon levels be no more than outdoor levels. While this goal is not yet technologically achievable for all homes, radon levels in many homes can be reduced to 2 pCi/L or below.

Radon Test Results Reported in Two Ways
Your radon test results may be reported in either picoCuries per liter of air (pCi/L) or working levels (WL). If your test result is in pCi/L, EPA recommends you fix your home if your radon level is 4 pCi/L or higher. If the test result is in WL, EPA recommends you fix the home if the working level is 0.02 WL or higher. Some states require WL results to be converted to pCi/L to minimize confusion.
Sometimes short-term tests are less definitive about whether the home is at or above 4 pCi/L; particularly when the results are close to 4 pCi/L. For example, if the average of two short-term tests is 4.1 pCi/L, there is about a 50% chance that the year-round average is somewhat below 4 pCi/L.
However, EPA believes that any radon exposure carries some risk; no level of radon is safe. Even radon levels below 4 pCi/L pose some risk. You can reduce your risk of lung cancer by lowering your radon level.
As with other environmental pollutants, there is some uncertainty about the magnitude of radon health risks. However, we know more about radon risks than risks from most other cancer-causing substances. This is because estimates of radon risks are based on data from human studies (underground miners). Additional studies on more typical populations are under way.

Your radon measurement will give you an idea of your risk of getting lung cancer from radon. Your chances of getting lung cancer from radon depend mostly on:

1. Your home's radon level;
2. The amount of time you spend in your home; and
3. Whether you are a smoker or have ever smoked.

Smoking combined with radon is an especially serious health risk. If you smoke or are a former smoker, the presence of radon greatly increases your risk of lung cancer. If you stop smoking now and lower the radon level in your house, you will reduce your lung cancer risk.

Based on information contained in the National Academy of Sciences 1998 report, The Health Effects of Exposure to Indoor Radon, your radon risk may be somewhat higher than shown; especially if you have never smoked. It's never too late to reduce your risk to lung cancer. Don't wait to test and fix a radon problem. If you are a smoker, stop smoking.
What to expect during radon testing in Coeur d'Alene

• Maintain closed-house conditions during he entire time of a short term test, especially for tests shorter than one week in length.
• Operate the home's heating and cooling systems normally during the test. For tests lasting less than one week, operate only air-conditioning units which recirculate interior air.
• Do not disturb the test device at any time during the test.
• If a radon-reduction system is in place, make sure the system is working properly and will be in operation during the entire radon test.
  
  

Closed-house conditions means keeping all windows closed, keeping doors closed except for normal entry and exit, and not operating fans or other machines which bring in air from outside. Fans that are part of a radon-reduction system or small exhaust fans operating for only short periods of time may run during the test.        
      What to expect after radon testing in Coeur d'Alene

• If an elevated level is found, fix the home. Contact a qualified radon-reduction contractor about lowering the radon level. EPA recommends that you fix the home when the radon level is 4 pCi/L or more.
• Be sure that you or the radon tester can demonstrate or provide information to ensure that the testing conditions were not violated during the testing period.

6. What Should I Do If the Radon Level is High?
a. High Radon Levels Can be Reduced
EPA recommends that you take action to reduce your home's indoor radon levels if your radon test result is 4 pCi/L or higher. It is better to correct a radon problem before placing your home on the market because then you have more time to address a radon problem.
If elevated levels are found during the real estate transaction, the buyer and seller should discuss the timing and costs of the radon reduction. The cost of making repairs to reduce radon levels depends on how your home was built and other factors. Most homes can be fixed for about the same cost as other common home repairs, like painting or having a new hot water heater installed. The average cost for a contractor to lower radon levels in a home can range from $800 to about $2,500.

b. How To Lower The Radon Level In Your Home
A variety of methods can be used to reduce radon in homes. Sealing cracks and other openings in the foundation is a basic part of most approaches to radon reduction. EPA does not recommend the use of sealing alone to limit radon entry. Sealing alone has not been shown to lower radon levels significantly or consistently.

In most cases, a system with a vent pipe(s) and fan(s) is used to reduce radon. These "sub-slab depressurization" systems do not require major changes to your home. Similar systems can also be installed in homes with crawl space. These systems prevent radon gas from entering the home from below the concrete floor and from outside the foundation. Radon mitigation contractors may use other methods that may also work in your home. The right system depends on the design of your home and other factors.
You should also test your home again after it is fixed to be sure that radon levels have been reduced. If your living patterns change and you begin occupying a lower level of your home (such as a basement) you should retest your home on that level. In addition, it is a good idea to retest your home sometime in the future to be sure radon levels remain low.

Radon and home renovations

If you are planning any major renovations, such as converting an unfinished basement area into living space, it is especially important to test the area for radon before you begin.
If your test results indicate an elevated radon level, radon-resistant techniques can be inexpensively included as part of the renovation. Major renovations can change the level of radon in any home. Test again after the work is completed.

c. Selecting a Radon-Reduction (Mitigation) Contractor
Select a qualified radon-reduction contractor to reduce the radon levels in your home. Any mitigation measures taken or system installed in your home must conform to your state's regulations.
EPA recommends that the mitigation contractor review the radon measurement results before beginning and radon-reduction work. Test again after the radon mitigation work has been completed to confirm that previous elevated levels have been reduced.

d. What Can a Qualified Radon-Reduction Contractor Do for You?
A qualified radon-reduction (mitigation) contractor should be able to:

• Review testing guidelines and measurement results, and determine if additional measurements are needed.
• Evaluate the radon problem and provide you with a detailed, written proposal on how radon levels will be lowered.
• Design a radon-reduction system.
• Install the system according to EPA standards, or state or local codes.
• Make sure the finished system effectively reduces radon levels to acceptable levels.

Choose a radon mitigation contractor to fix your radon problem just as you would for any other home repair. You may want to get more than one estimate, ask for and check their references. Make sure the person you hire is qualified to install a mitigation system. Some states regulate or certify radon mitigation services providers.

Be aware that a potential conflict of interest exists if the same person or firm performs the testing and installs the mitigation system. Some states may require the homeowner to sign a waiver in such cases. Contact your state radon office for more information.
e. Radon in Water
The radon in your home's indoor air can come from two sources, the soil or your water supply. Compared to radon entering your home through water, radon entering your home through soil is a much larger risk. If you've tested for radon in air and have elevated radon levels and your water comes from a private well, have your water tested. The devices and procedures for testing your home's water supply are different from those used for measuring radon in air.

The radon in your water supply poses an inhalation risk and an ingestion risk. Research has shown that your risk of lung cancer from breathing radon in air is much larger than your risk of stomach cancer from swallowing water with radon in it. Most of your risk from radon in water comes from radon released into the air when water is used for showering and other household purposes.

Radon in your home's water in not usually a problem when its source is surface water. A radon in water problem is more likely when its source is ground water, e.g., a private well or a public water supply system that uses ground water. Some public water systems treat their water to reduce radon levels before it is delivered to your home. If you are concerned that radon may be entering your home through the water and your water comes from a public water supply, contact your water supplier.

If you've tested your private well and have a radon in water problem, it can be fixed. Your home's water supply can be treated in one of two ways. Point-of-entry treatment can effectively remove radon from the water before it enters your home. Point-of-entry treatment usually employs either granular activated carbon (GAC) filters or aeration devices. While GAC filters usually cost less than aeration devices, filters can collect radioactivity and may require a special method of disposal. Point-of-use treatment devices remove radon from your water at the tap, but only treat a small portion of the water you use, e.g., the water you drink. Point-of-use devices are not effective in reducing the risk from breathing radon released into the air from all water used in the home.


For information on radon in water, testing and treatment, and existing or planned radon in drinking water standards, or for general help, call EPA's Drinking Water Hotline at (800) 426-4791. If your water comes from a private well, you can also contact your state radon office.
 
f. Radon Hotlines (Toll-Free)
EPA supports the following hotlines to best serve consumers with radon-related questions and concerns.

• 1-800-SOS-RADON (767-7236). Radon Hotline, operated by the National Safety Council (NSC) in partnership with EPA. Order radon test kits by phone.
• 1-800-55RADON (557-2366). For live help with your radon questions. Operated by the National Safety Council (NSC) in partnership with EPA.
• 1-800-438-4318. The Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) Information Clearinghouse is privately operated under contract to EPA. You can order copies of EPA consumer-oriented radon publications and get general information on radon and indoor air quality issues.
• 1-800-426-4791. Safe Drinking Water Hotline, privately operated under contract to EPA. For general information on drinking water, radon in water, testing and treatment, and radon drinking water standards.

U.S. Surgeon General Health Advisory
"Indoor radon gas is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and breathing it over prolonged periods can present a significant health risk to families all over the country. It's important to know that this threat is completely preventable. Radon can be detected with a simple test and fixed through well-established venting techniques." January 2005

Meth Testing In Coeur d'Alene AND Spokane Areas!

Certified Master Inspector, Russ Spriggs, has been laboratory-trained to test for Structural Narcotics and meth lab / use in the Coeur d’Alene - Spokane area.
 
www.TestForMethLabs.com
We can test for the presence of these illegal substances:
Cocaine, Crack, Heroin, Amphetamine, Methamphetamine, Ecstasy/MDMA, Benzedrone, Buphedrone, Carfentanyl, Cathinone, DMT, EAPB, Fentanyl, Ketamine, mCPP, MDMAI, MDPBP, MDPV, Mephedrone, Methadone, Methcathinone, Methylone, Mexedrone, MPA, PCP, Pentedrone, Pentylone, PMA, PMMA, 2-aminoindane (2-AI), & other synthetic/designer drugs

Meth labs have been in our area for 40 years.
We test your Coeur d'Alene - Spokane area home for traces of having been used as a meth lab. Toxic contaminants will remain on walls, carpets and in your furnace ductwork for decades, slowly and insidiously poisoning the occupants. 
Call Today to Schedule:
208.660.8877
 
  
* Home buyers are suing realtors for selling contaminated property.
* Tenants are suing landlords for renting contaminated property.
* Landlords are suing tenants for contaminating the property.
 
"The potential liability is enormous. . . . The cost of resolving the lawsuit could far outweigh the time and money it takes to clean up a lab."
Russell Duke, Health & Safety Manager - Idaho Department of Health & Welfare.
 
90% of all meth labs go unreported. These unreported homes are often surface cleaned and/or repainted to fool an unsuspecting home buyer. 
 The problem is so extensive that larger cities such as Denver and Salt Lake City are working on legislation which would require that every home sold be tested for methamphetamine contamination.
 If your home was the site of a clandestine methamphetamine laboratory, you could be at risk of exposure to drug pollution from dangerous toxic chemicals, even after cleaning up the lab. "Meth" targets the brain and central nervous system. Even if you have never used meth, you could develop symptoms similar to Parkinson's disease. Health hazards linked to meth include brain damage, cancer, damage to the liver and kidneys, birth defects, and miscarriages.


A King County (WA) Public Health study reports, "...small amounts of contaminants can remain on floors, walls, counters, carpets, furniture, sinks, drains and ventilation systems. Exposure to even small amounts ... can pose serious health risks." (Read the full study.)


Areas of manufacturing – or even extreme drug use - may cause serious health problems to subsequent residents, even if they have never used drugs. Drug pollution does not dissipate with time; it must be identified and cleaned. Methamphetamine can often be cleaned in a manner that is both thorough and cost effective. No laws prevent a property owner from cleaning drug pollution unless the premises are used for commercial purposes.
 Meth labs have been discovered in all types of neighborhoods, social classes and age groups. Manufacturers have ranged in age from teenagers to grandparents.


One of our certified laboratories utilizes a scientific technology known as Ion Mobility Spectrometry (IMS); this is the same technology being used in airports to safeguard our lives against explosives.


Meth Lab Exposure: Health Risks
Illegal meth production is a highly explosive process that releases toxic chemical air contaminates, such as phosphine, hydrochloric acid, and vaporized methaphetamine.
After a meth "cook" has finished producing meth, residual chemical toxins contaminate all internal surfaces, the ventilation system, waste drains, and of course, the individuals living in the dwelling.
Police estimate that for each pound of meth produced, there are 5 pounds of hazardous waste.
 
Methamphetamine manufacturing is a growing a problem, and some law enforcement agencies claim it is unstoppable.
Methamphetamine residue does not dissipate with time. It must be cleaned up, to insure personal health and safety.
Most meth residue can be cleaned up with everyday household cleaning products. Until a former methamphetamine lab site is cleaned up, no one should rent, purchase, or occupy the property.
 
Meth Cleanup
  KCI: the Anti-Meth Site
  KCI: the Anti-Meth Site
  Tennessee: Cleanup of Meth Contaminated Properties
  House Committee on Science
  Meth Cleanup Question and Answer Guide
 
Symptoms of drug exposure
Living in a former meth lab? After prolonged exposure to drug contamination, you could experience any of the wide variety of health concerns on the list below.
 
Paranoia
Convulsions
Acne, Sores
Sleep Deprivation
Excessive Talking
Severe Depression
Poor Coping Abilities
False Sense of Confidence
False Sense of Power
Hallucinations
Increased Heart Rate
 ​Numbness
Dramatic Mood Swings
Memory Loss
Aggressive Behavior
Violent Behavior
Weight Loss
Impaired Speech
Hyperactive Behavior
Decreased Social Life
Increased Sexual Activity
Panic
 
 
If you think your child is involved with or keeping company with those who do drugs, we could discreetly obtain a sample from their clothing or from an unknown substance in your child's room and submit the collection pad for analysis.


North Idaho / Spokane Allergy Testing
​Do you have trouble breathing?
Difficulty concentrating? 
The problem may be your Indoor Air Quality!

Most of us spend 90% of our time indoors.  Therefore, Indoor Air Quality is critical to our health. While we once took “air” for granted, especially in the safety of our own homes, many of us are being poisoned in our sleep. Do not confuse the indoor air quality of your house with the air quality of Coeur d'Alene. One does not necessarily have anything to do with the other. Indoor air quality in Coeur d'Alene does not really exist, the air quality of Coeur d'Alene would be an outdoor air quality issue and in no way are we saying anything is wrong with the air in Coeur d'Alene.
 
Today’s airtight houses restrict the out-gassing of VOCs (volatile organic compounds), which are commonly found in the carpets, paints, furniture, paneling, floorboards etc. in our homes, and we breathe these toxins into our bodies every day. This is further compounded by mold, insect debris, rodent waste, pet dander, dust mites (see photo), structural narcotics and other allergens that North Idaho / Spokane Allergy Testing can identify.

Dust Mites
 Clinics and doctors can tell you what you may be allergic to, but, as North Idaho / Spokane Allergy Testing specialists, we can tell you if you are living with the allergens that cause your allergic suffering. Doctors may not make house calls, but we specialize in them.
 
North Idaho / Spokane Allergy Testing is lab-certified to investigate, inspect, test and sample for a wide variety of allergenic substances. We FedEx the samples to the lab, and you get a Certified Lab Report that is unique to only your home. Armed with that information, you will know exactly the cause of concern in your household, and will finally be able to deal with it.

Mold
 Everyone’s situation is different. Together, we’ll come up with an affordable and effective plan for testing your home or place of business. 
Call Russell at 208.660.8877.
 
Do not let our title fool you. We may be known as the Coeur d'Alene Indoor Air Quality Inspectors, but we are also known as Post Falls Indoor Air Quality Inspectors, Kellogg Indoor Air Quality Inspectors, Sandpoint Indoor Air Quality Inspectors, Spokane Indoor Air Quality Inspectors, Hayden Indoor Air Quality Inspectors and North Idaho Indoor Air Quality Inspectors. At North Idaho / Spokane Allergy Testing, we look forward to helping you on your path of wellness!Your North Idaho / Spokane Allergy Testing Inspector,
Russell
Client TestimonialsI am very pleased with the excellent customer service received from Russ and Jeanne. I was able to make an appointment the same day, they both were extremely professional and made my experience very comfortable. Being a first time home buyer, I was very nervous during the initial process. Both Russ and Jeanne put my mind at complete ease and I would recommend their inspection services to everyone.
Jennifer
Coeur dlAlene, ID

I am pleased with the thorough inspection report compiled by Russ and Jeanne. I appreciate the promptness of the inspection.
Pat C.
St Maries, ID

We were very pleased with the quick response and the very thorough nature of the report. We will feel more comfortable in our new home knowing that someone experienced gave it the once over-after all when looking at homes, the buyer generally sees the more obvious things. Details are important too.
Cynthia W.
Rathdrum, ID
Home Maintenance ResourcesHome Maintenance Links & Resources

 
Inclusion of any site is strictly for convenience and informational purposes only, and does not imply any endorsement.
 
Associations
NACHI, the National Association of Certified Home Inspectors – www.nachi.org
 
Consumer Advisory
Known Product Related Failures - Search for product recalls which may be safety hazards
http://www.cpsc.gov
CPSC product recalls by type - http://63.74.109.29/cgi-bin/recalldb/prod.asp
 
Environmental
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) - epa.gov
Radon Zone Map - EPA - http://www.epa.gov/iaq/radon/zonemap.html
Indoor Air Quality (IAQ) - http://www.epa.gov/iaq/
Carbon Monoxide: Answers - http://www.coheadquarters.com/CO1.htm
How Carbon Monoxide Effects Humans - http://www.inspect-ny.com/hazmat/asgasinf.htm
Septic systems Information - http://www.inspect-ny.com/septbook.htm
Water testing Information - http://www.inspect-ny.com/water/watrtest.htm
 
Home Improvement and Maintenance
Hometime - http://www.hometime.com/
Do It Yourself. - http://www.doityourself.com/
Today's Homeowner / This Old House - http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/
House Detective - http://housedetective.com/index.shtml
Home and Garden Television - http://www.hgtv.com/
Improvenet.com - http://www.improvenet.com/index.html?src=homeheroLandscapeUSA
Landscaping - http://www.landscapeusa.com/default.asp
Lowe's - http://www.lowes.com
The Home Depot - http://www.homedepot.com
Ace Hardware - http://www.acehardware.com/index.asp
 
Water Heaters
Water Heater Safety Information - http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/heatingcooling/article/0,13422,214930,00.html
Bradford White Water Heaters - http://www.bradfordwhite.com/default.asp
Water heater Help from A.O. Smith. - http://www.hotwater.com/frame.html?topage=techhome.htm
State Industries Water Heaters - http://www.stateind.com/
Appliances
Appliance Buying Guide - http://www.aham.org/consumerhome/home.cfm
Installation and Repair Information - http://www.doityourself.com/appliance/
Recalled Appliances - http://www.appliancerescue.com/sandiego/recalls/recalls03112002.html
More Recalled Appliances - http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/prerel/category/appliance.html
Building Materials
Siding Claims Services - http://www.homeclaimservices.com/
More Siding Claims Services - http://www.sidingclaims.com/
Class Action Lawsuits Information - http://www.hadd.com/casuits.html
Masonite (r) Siding - http://www.masoniteclaims.com
EIFS Consumer Advocate Site - http://www.eifsfacts.org
More EIFS Information - http://www.gahi.com/eifshome.htm

Swimming Pools
Pool Safety Tips for Children - http://www.aap.org/family/tipppool.htm
Pool Safety Information - http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/chdrown.html
More Pool Safety Information - http://www.cdc.gov/health/spsafety.htm
Operating Your Pool - http://www.poolmanual.com/



Plumbing
Toilet Information - http://www.toiletology.com/index.shtml
Polybutylene Piping information - http://www.plumbing911.com/
Class Action Settlement for Polybutylene Piping - http://www.pbpipe.com/index1.htm
Univ. of Arizona study on Polybutylene Piping - http://ag.arizona.edu/AZWATER/awr/nov94/leaks.html


Electrical
Aluminum Wiring - http://www.inspect-ny.com/aluminum.htm
Federal Pacific Panel Box Information - http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/fpepanel.htm
More Information about Federal Pacific Panel Boxes - http://www.inspect-ny.com/fpe/CPSCsummary.htm


Fireplaces & Chimneys
Locate A Chimney Sweep - http://www.csia.org/
Heating with Wood - http://www.woodheat.org/
Chimney Safety and Care - http://www.chimneys.com/
Wood Stoves: Installing and Operating - http://www.cdc.gov/nasd/docs/d000101-d000200/d000132/d000132.html
Chimney and Fire Investigation Services - http://f-i-r-e-service.com/f-i-r-e-service/


Heating & Cooling
Troubleshooting Your HVAC - http://www.hvacwebtech.com/
Help for Home Heating Systems - http://www.heatinghelp.com/
Commonly Reported HVAC Problems - http://www.hannabery.com/faq.shtml
 
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
"Everything You Want To Know About MOLD"
http://www.epa.gov/iaq/pubs/moldresources.html
 
Ohio State University Extension Fact Sheet --- Entomology 
Termites-- Identification, Life Cycle, Habits, and Control 
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2092.html
 
Mass. Department of Environmental Protection
Information on septic systems, drinking water, hazardous wastes, recycling, wetlands, underground tanks, lawn and garden and air quality. http://www.state.ma.us/dep/consumer/consumer.htm
 
This Old House (Web-site of the PBS Series).More helpful topics than can be listed here... http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/
 
JLCOnline-- Journal of Light Construction
Since 1982, they have provided unbiased coverage of products, materials, and building techniques http://www.jlconline.com/
 
Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)
Flood Insurance Information, Flood Maps, Urban Search-and-Rescue, Fire Prevention
http://www.fema.gov/
  
 
The below listing is a sampling of life expectancies for different products and materials used in homes, as listed in a report titled "1997 Housing Facts, Figures and Trends" published by the National Association of Home Builders (NAHB), Washington, D.C.
 

APPLIANCES
Compactor - 10 years.
Dishwasher - 10 years.
Garbage Disposer - 10 years.
Dryer - 10 years.
Freezer (compact) - 12 years.
Freezer (standard) - 16 years.
Microwave Oven - 11 years.
Range (freestanding and built-in, electric) - 17 years.
Range (freestanding and built-in, gas) - 19 years.
Range (high oven, gas) - 14 years.
Refrigerator (compact) - 14 years.
Refrigerator (standard) - 17 years.
Washer (automatic and compact) - 13 years.
Exhaust Fans - 20 years.
 
BATHROOM FIXTURES
Cast Iron bathtub - 50 years.
Fiberglass bathtub and shower - 10-15 years.
Shower door (average quality) - 25 years.
Toilet - 50 years.
 
CABINETS
Kitchen cabinets - 15-20 years.
Medicine cabinet/bath vanity - 20
 
COUNTERTOPS
Laminate - 10-15 years.
Ceramic tile (high grade installation) - Lifetime.
Wood/butcher block - 20+ years.
Granite - 20+ years.
 
DOORS
Screen - 25 - 50 years.
Interior (not perfect hollow core) - <30 years to life.
Interior (solid core) - 30 years to life.
Exterior (protected overhang) - 80-100 years.
Exterior (unprotected and exposed) - 25-30 years.
Folding - 30 years to life.
Garage door - 20 - 50 years.
Garage door opener - 10 years.
FINISHES (Used for waterproofing)
Paint, plaster and stucco - 3-5 years.
Sealer, silicone, and waxes - 1-5 years.
 
FLOORS
Oak or pine - Lifetime
Slate flagstone - Lifetime
Vinyl sheet or tile - minimum
Terrazzo - Lifetime
Carpeting - 11 years
Marble – Lifetime
 
FOOTINGS & FOUNDATIONS
Poured footing & foundation - 200 years.
Concrete block - 100 years.
Cement - 50 years.
Waterproofing (bituminous coating) - 10 years.
Termite proofing - 5 years.
 
HEATING, VENTILATION & AIR CONDITIONING
Air conditioning unit (central) - 15 years.
Air conditioning unit (window) - 10 years.
Baseboard heat units - 20 years.
Humidifier - 8 years.
Water Heater (electric) - 14 years.
Water Heater (gas) - 11 - 13 years.
Forced air furnace, heat pump - 15
Furnace, gas or oil fired - 18 years.
 
HOME SECURITY
Intrusion system - 14 years.
Smoke Detector - 12 years.
Smoke/fire/intrusion system - 10 years.
 
LANDSCAPING
Wooden deck - 15 years.
Brick and concrete patio - 24 years.
Tennis court - 10 years.
Concrete walk - 24 years.
Gravel walk - 4 years.
Asphalt driveway - 10 years.
Swimming pool - 18 years.
Sprinkler system - 12 years.
Fence - 12 years.
 
PAINTS & STAINS
Exterior paint on wood, brick and aluminum - 7-10 years.
Interior wall paint - 5-10 years.
Interior trim and door paint - 5-10 years.
Interior wallpaper - 7 years.
 
PLUMBING
Faucets (low quality) - 13-15 years.
Faucets (high quality) 15-20 years.
Sinks (enamel steel sink) - 5-10 years.
Sinks (enamel cast iron sink) - 25-30 years.
Sinks (Porcelain sink) - 25-30 years.
Waste pipe (concrete) - 50-100 years.
Waste pipe (cast iron) - 75-100 years.
 
ROOFING
Asphalt and wood shingles and shakes - 15-30 years.
Asphalt composition shingle - 15-30 years.
Asphalt overlay - 25-35 years.
Built-up roofing (asphalt) - 12-25 years.
Built-up roofing (coat and tar) - 12-30 years.
Gutters and downspouts - 30 years.
Slate - 50-100 years.
Sheet metal - 20-50 years.
Tile - 50 years.
 
SIDING
Aluminum Siding - 20-50 years.
Steel Siding - 50 years to Life.
Vinyl Siding - 50 years.
Wood Siding - 10 - 100 years.
 
WINDOWS
Aluminum casement - 10-20 years.
Wood casement - 20-50 years


“How’s the Roof?”
 
It’s a deceptively simple question that rarely has a simple answer, but it shows the concerns that people have about roofs. They want to hear that it doesn’t leak. Inspecting them is a hazardous business; because of personal and property safety, roofs just shouldn’t be walked on. I inspect it from a variety of vantage points using powerful binoculars.There are many different roof types, and every roof will wear differently relative to its age, the number of its layers, the quality of its material, the method of its application, its exposure to direct sunlight or to other prevalent weather conditions, and its maintenance. There are two basic roof types, pitched and flat. Pitched roofs are the most common, and the most dependable. They are typically finished with composition shingles, or concrete, composite, Spanish, or metal tiles that have a design-life of forty to fifty years, and gravel roofs that have a lesser pitch and a shorter design-life of ten to fifteen years. These roofs may be layered, or have one roof installed over another, which is a common practice but one that is never recommended because it reduces the design-life of the new roof by several years. Layering is not always obvious. I know of a case in which after escrow closed, when the new owner was in the process of adding an addition, it was discovered that the roof actually had three layers, which the local building inspector insisted had to be removed before the addition could be tied into the existing roof. The roof had been indexed; that is, successive layers of shingle had been cut back to a point above the top- plate, and were not readily evident in a non-invasive inspection.   

 There are a wide variety of composition shingle roofs, which are comprised of asphalt or fiberglass materials impregnated with mineral granules that are designed to deflect the deteriorating ultra-violet rays of the sun. These roofs are warranted by the manufacturer to last from twenty to twenty-five years, and are typically guaranteed against leaks by the installer for three to five years. The actual life of the roof will vary, depending on a number of interrelated factors besides the quality of the material and the method of installation. The most common cause of leakage results when roofs are not serviced or kept clean, and foliage and other debris blocks the drainage channels. Poor maintenance is the most common cause of roof failure, but a southern exposure can cause a roof to deteriorate prematurely, as will the practice of layering over another roof. However, the first indication of significant wear is when the granules begin to separate and leave pockmarks or dark spots. This is referred to as primary decomposition, which means that the roof is in decline, and therefore susceptible to leakage. This typically begins with the hip and ridge shingles and to the field shingles on the south facing side. This does not mean that the roof is ready to be replaced, but that it should be serviced or monitored. Regular maintenance will certainly extend the life of any roof, and will usually avert most leaks that only become evident after they have caused other damage. This is important, because in accordance with industry standards our inspection service does not include a guarantee against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you ask them about its history and then schedule a regular maintenance service.
 
What remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is virtually impossible for anyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific water tests, which are beyond the scope of our service. Even water stains on ceilings, or on the framing within attics, will not necessarily confirm an active leak without some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be deliberately concealed. Consequently, only the installer can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. We cannot, and do not give any such guarantees. We will examine every roof and evaluate it, but we will not predict is remaining life expectancy, nor guarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.

Roof leaks usually result as a consequence of neglect and poor maintenance; that explains why they need to be maintained and why I will not endorse any that are not absolutely perfect. There are a wide variety of roofing materials, some better than others. Always ask the seller about the history of the roof or, better yet, on any home that is over 3 years old, obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.
 
There are a wide variety of composition shingle roofs, which are comprised of asphalt or fiberglass materials impregnated with mineral granules that are designed to deflect the deteriorating ultra-violet rays of the sun. The commonest of these roofs are warranted by manufacturers to last from twenty to twenty-five years, and are typically guaranteed against leaks by the installer for three to five years. The actual life of the roof will vary, depending on a number of interrelated factors besides the quality of the material and the method of installation. Poor maintenance is the most common cause of roof failure, but a southern exposure can cause a roof to deteriorate prematurely, as will the practice of layering over another roof. However, the first indication of significant wear occurs when the granules begin to separate and leave pockmarks or dark spots. This is referred to as primary decomposition, which means that the roof is in decline, and therefore susceptible to leakage. This typically begins with the hip and ridge shingles and to the field shingles on the south facing side. This does not mean that the roof is ready to be replaced, but that it should be serviced or monitored. Regular maintenance will certainly extend the life of any roof, and will usually avert most leaks that only become evident after they have caused other damage. This is important, because in accordance with industry standards our inspection service does not include a guarantee against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you ask them about its history and then schedule a regular maintenance service.
 
Wood shingles and shakes are among the oldest of roofing materials, but they are coming under increasing criticism and are no longer permitted in some jurisdictions. They are comprised of uniformly thin shingles or thick shakes, installed on either spaced or solid sheathing. Spaced sheathing consists of strips of wood that run perpendicularly to the rafters, on which the shingles or shakes are fastened. These are easily broken, and are now considered to be seismically vulnerable and structurally suspect. In addition, the open spaces between them permit a fire to draft more rapidly, and whatever chemical fire-retardant the shakes or shingles may have been impregnated with it diminishes over time. Wood roofs with solid sheathing are structurally sounder, but are still not permitted in some jurisdictions. Regardless, whereas such roofs have a life expectancy of twenty-five years, which is similar to many other roofs, they tend to weather more rapidly and must be carefully monitored and maintained. This is particularly important, because our service does not include a guarantee against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you ask them about its history, and then schedule regular maintenance service.
 
There are different types of metal roofs, but the most common ones consist of ribbed, interlocking panels, or tiles that have been coated with a mineral compound that are warranted for as long as fifty years. They tend to be maintenance-free, and many can be walked on, but some can be damaged by careless foot-traffic, and it is essential for service personnel to wear soft shoes and to tread directly in the pan and not across the tile. As with other pitched roofs, many metal roofs are dependant on the waterproof membrane that is concealed beneath them and cannot be examined, and this is why our service does not include a guarantee against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you should request the installation permit, which could include a warranty or guarantee.
 
Flat roofs are designed to be waterproof, not just water resistant, and to last approximately fifteen years. They are rarely flat, and generally slope toward drains, in or near surrounding parapet walls. However, water ponds on many of these roofs that will only be dispersed by evaporation. For this and related reasons, flat roofs have always been problematic and must be maintained. They are comprised of several layers of rolled roofing materials, which are either hot-mopped or torched-down that expand and contract in the daily and sometimes radical temperature extremes, and eventually buckle, split, separate, and finally deteriorate. When this happens, the roof is susceptible to leaks. However, although gradual decomposition of the roofing materials is inevitable, most leaks result from poor maintenance. Therefore, regardless of the age of a flat roof, it should be inspected seasonally, kept clean, and serviced frequently. Although less expensive that other roofs, they can end up costing more if they are not maintained. This is important, because our inspection service does not include a guarantee against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you ask them about its history, and then schedule a regular maintenance service.
 
Gravel roofs are among the least expensive of roofs. They are designed to last for approximately fifteen years, and are typically guaranteed against leaks by the installer for three years. They are similar to flat roofs, inasmuch as they are comprised of layers of fifteen-pound asphalt paper and a heavier mineral cap sheet that is swabbed with boiling tar and then covered with rock and gravel, which is designed to deflect the deteriorating rays of the sun. They are low-pitched and do not drain efficiently. The gravel further impedes drainage, and moisture is actually held at the edges by metal that is designed to prevent the gravel from spilling over. For this reason, flat roofs are particularly susceptible to moisture damage at the eaves and must be kept clean and inspected regularly. However, poor maintenance is the most common cause of roof failure. The first indication of wear will be evident on the ridges and hips or at other points where the gravel has been displaced, and which leaves the cap sheet susceptible to ultra-violet deterioration. This does not mean that the roof is ready to be replaced but that it is in decline and will need to be monitored more closely. Regular maintenance will certainly extend the life of any roof, and will usually avert most leaks that only become evident after they have caused other damage. This is important because our inspection does not include any guarantee against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water-test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you should ask them about its history and then schedule a regular maintenance service.
 
NOTE: Certified Inspectors are not Licensed Roofers and cannot comment on life expectancy / proper installation of roof.
 
EXTERIOR STRUCTURE
The word foundation is a timeless metaphor of strength and security, and people quite naturally have genuine concerns about the foundations on which their homes rest. For this reason, people need to be educated about foundations in general and specific types in particular, and I include such information in every report. This is what I include about slab on-grade foundations, and you are welcome to use all or any part of it that you might find useful.
 
We examine the visible portion of the stem walls on the exterior of the structure for any evidence of significant cracks or structural deformation. However, we do not move furniture or lift carpeting and padding to look for cracks, and we do not use any specialized tools or measuring devices to establish relative elevations or determine any degree of differential settling. Interestingly, many slabs are found to contain cracks when the carpet and padding are removed, but there is no absolute standard for evaluating them. However, those that are less than 1/4" and which exhibit no significant vertical or horizontal displacement are not regarded as being structurally threatening. They typically result from common shrinkage, but can also be caused by a deficient mixture of concrete, deterioration through time, seismic activity, adverse soil conditions, and poor drainage, and if they are not sealed they can allow moisture to enter a residence, and particularly if the residence is surcharged by a hill or a slope, or if downspouts discharge adjacent to the slab. However, in the absence of any major defects, we may not recommend that you consult with a structural engineer or a foundation contractor, but this should not deter you from seeking the opinion of any such expert, and we would be happy to refer one. 

About Coeur d'Alene Home, Mold and Allergen InspectorsWe are called “North Idaho’s Most Trusted Home Inspection Team” because we work only for you. Our purpose is to ensure the safety of you, your home, and your loved ones. Here in North Idaho, there are no requirements for being a “Home Inspector” – and many who have lost their jobs are claiming to be one.
Russ & Jeanne are Idaho's Certified MASTER Inspectors; we have both passed an exam administered by the National Association of Home Inspectors, and fulfill 24 hours of annual Continuing Education requirements. Additionally, we are both Lab-Certified to test your future home for mold, allergens, radon, meth residue, structural narcotics, water quality, lead, asbestos and more.
Russell is Idaho’s first Certified Master Inspector® and president of Idaho’s Certified Home Inspectors (members of www.nachi.org ).
Jeanne has specialized training in environmental issues. She is a Certified INDOOR AIR QUALITY Inspector, Idaho’s First EDR Certified Inspector, and a certified home and commercial inspector.
We are known as a Coeur d'Alene Home & Mold Inspector, Hayden home inspector, Post Falls home inspector, Sandpoint home inspector, Kellogg home inspector and a home inspector in all of north Idaho. We are invested in the communities we serve and are involved in and contribute to the local economies and safety of the citizens of the areas we serve, including mold and allergy inspections and testing in Spokane.
Your Coeur d'Alene Home Inspectors have professional training in home inspection (3 Levels), new construction inspections and commercial inspections. we also belong to InterNational Association of Certified Home Inspectors, The Home Inspector’s Consumer Action Group and The Environmental Solutions Association.
We are uniquely qualified to perform you home inspection, and honored to do so!

Move In Certified Home InspectionBuying a Home? Make sure it's Move In Certified. Selling a Home? Have a Move In Certified Home Inspection. These Homes are Pre-Inspected and Ready!Move In Certified Home Inspections have been pre-inspected by NACHI Certified Home Inspectors; the sellers confirm that there are no major systems in need of immediate repair or replacement and no known safety hazards. The Move In Certified Home Inspection reports may be delivered via email, or hosted on www.FetchReport.com.
 
Home Sellers
Advantages of having your home Move-In Certified:

• You are choosing a Certified Master Inspector to inspect the home properly before a buyer's inspector arrives (remember, there are no requirements to be a home inspector in Idaho).
• You can schedule the inspection at your convenience.
• You will be alerted of any areas of immediate personal concern, such as carbon monoxide gas or electrical hazards.
• You may assist the inspector during your home's inspection, something normally not done during a buyer's inspection.
• You can help correct any misstatements in the inspection report before it is generated.
• Your report can help you realistically price the home if any concerns exist.
• Your report can help you substantiate a higher asking price if issues don't exist or have been corrected.
• You are alerted to any immediate safety and liability issues, before agents and visitors tour the home.
• Your report provides a third-party, unbiased opinion to offer to potential buyers.
• Your inspection permits a clean home inspection report to be viewed by interested buyers
• The home can be advertised as pre-inspected with a home warranty.
• Your Move In Certified yard signs attract more potential buyers.
• Your Seller's inspection is the ultimate gesture in forthrightness on your part.
• The report might relieve a prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• Your Seller's inspection lightens negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• Your report might encourage the buyer to waive the inspection contingency.
• Your deal is less likely to fall apart the way they often do when a buyer's inspection unexpectedly reveals a last minute problem.
• Your report provides full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.

Your Seller's Move In Certified Home Inspection reveals facts ahead of time which:

1. May make the home show better.
2. Allow you time to make repairs yourself, or to shop for competitive contractors.
3. Permit you to attach repair estimates or paid invoices to the inspection report.
4. Remove over-inflated buyer procured estimates from the negotiation table.

Home Buyers
Advantages of buying a home that has been Move-In Certified.

• The Move In Certified Home Inspection is already completed and may be hosted online at www.FetchReport.com.
• The Home inspection is paid for by the seller.
• The Home inspection report provides an accurate, third-party view of the condition of the home prior to making an offer.
• A sellers inspection eliminates surprise defects.
• Concerns are corrected or at least acknowledged prior to making an offer on the home.
• A seller inspection reduces the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• The report might assist in acquiring financing.
• A seller inspection allows the buyer to sweeten the offer without increasing the offering price by waiving inspections.

Ask the seller or real estate agent for access to the Move In Certified Home Inspection report!
 
Real Estate Agents
Advantages of listing a home that has been Move-In Certified.

• Agents can recommend Certified NACHI Inspectors to inspect the home properly before the buyer's inspector arrives.
• Sellers can schedule the inspections at seller's convenience with little effort on the part of agents.
• Sellers can assist inspectors during the inspections, something normally not done during buyer's inspections.
• Sellers can have inspectors correct any misstatements in the reports before they are generated.
• Reports help sellers see their homes through the eyes of a critical, third-party, thus making sellers more realistic about asking price.
• Agents are alerted to any immediate safety issues found, before other agents and potential buyers tour the home.
• Repairs made ahead of time might make homes show better.
• Move In Certified yard signs attract potential buyers.
• The reports hosted on www.FetchReport.com entice potential buyers to tour MoveInCertified homes.
• The reports provide third-party, unbiased opinions to offer to potential buyers.
• Move In Certified Home Inspection reports can be used as marketing tools to help sell the homes.
• Reports can relieve prospective buyer's unfounded suspicions, before they walk away.
• Seller inspections eliminate buyer's remorse that sometimes occurs just after an inspection.
• Seller inspections reduce the need for negotiations and 11th-hour renegotiations.
• Seller inspections relieve the agent of having to hurriedly procure repair estimates or schedule repairs.
• The reports often encourage buyers to waive their inspection contingencies.
• Deals are less likely to fall apart the way they often can when buyer's inspections unexpectedly reveal problems, last minute.
• Reports provide full-disclosure protection from future legal claims.